Smoke & Pickles

Since I have been having a terrible month, my FFF (faithful foodie friend) Anne, sent me a cookbook.   It was the highpoint of my month!   She sent me a copy of Smoke & Pickles by Edward Lee.  I must admit that Edward Lee is not a chef that I have ever been really fired up about.  This book might have just changed that.   While Southern food is defined by a bunch of different ingredients, one thing that people often leave out of the equation is the story. 

A big bowl of collard greens is just that.  But tell me who made the bowl, how they were cooked, which family member cooked them in which pot, where they were picked, who owned the land during the War Between the States, and you have yourself a big bowl of Southern collards.

So what is a Korean boy from New York City doing running a Southern restaurant in Kentucky?  That is a story.  The story begins like most cooking stories do, in a kitchen with a mother or grandmother.   Then there was tossing out Korean barbecue to make some extra money, but when a noted chef walked in and the food was sub par, Lee had to rethink the whole thing.  Then there was a fluke call from a friend who said come on down for the Derby.  They always need cooks and you can watch the race.  He went and stayed.

For a boy who grew up in a Brooklyn tenement, he sure can tell a good story.  His love of the land is positively palpable and his respect for the things that grow and roam that land are evident.  He has managed to keep all the things his grandmother taught him while expanding the culinary framework of old southern tradition.  He does it beautifully.  And the boy knows his bourbon! 

Jalapeño-Spiked Bourbon Julep

4 to 6 fresh mint leaves, plus a sprig for garnish
1 ounce Jalapeño Simple Syrup (recipe follows)
Crushed ice
2½ ounces bourbon
Splash of club soda
A jalapeño slice for garnish

Place the mint leaves in the bottom of a julep cup, add the simple syrup, and gently bruise the leaves with a wooden muddler or a wooden spoon. Add enough crushed ice to fill the cup almost two-thirds of the way. Add the bourbon and stir gently, then fill the cup almost full with more crushed ice. Top with a splash of club soda. Garnish with the mint sprig and slice of jalapeño and serve immediately.

Jalapeño Simple Syrup

1 cup water
1 cup sugar
2 jalapeño peppers, chopped (seeds and all)

1. In a small saucepan, combine the water, sugar, and peppers and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Turn off the heat and let steep for 20 minutes.

2. Strain the syrup and allow to cool. Keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Next time you throw a party, break out this recipe and nice jar of kimchi!  

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KENTUCKY BUTTER CAKE

I'm not sure where I saw this cake for the first time, but I remember finding web page after web page saying how great this recipe was, so I knew I had to try it.

So, today was the day and all I have to say is: Holy Wack-a-Moley (as my grandchildren would say)it is delicious. Even picky-picky husband has had several pieces of cake today. 

It has a rich and moist butter-rum flavor and after it's baked (and still hot) you poke holes into the cake and drizzle over a butter-rum flavored syrup.I'm talking serious flavor here!!

The syrup finds its way down into the cake and the result is pure heaven. I hope you try it.

1 cup butter (room temperature)
2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon rum extract
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 eggs
3 cups all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup buttermilk

Grease and flour a 10" Bundt pan and preheat your oven to 325°F.
Beat the butter, sugar and extracts on medium high speed for about 3 minutes, scraping down the bowl once or twice.

Add the eggs, one at a time (beating after each) and once they are all included, beat for about another minute or so.

Mix the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt together and add it to the butter mixture, alternately with the buttermilk (I added it in thirds).

This batter is nice and thick, so spoon it into the prepared Bundt pan and level out the top of the batter.

Bake at 325° for one hour or until a toothpick tests clean. My electric oven took exactly one hour.

Remove from oven and DO NOT REMOVE CAKE FROM THE PAN YET. Poke holes into the hot cake. I used the sharp end of my meat thermometer and it left a nice size hole. Don't poke the holes all the way down to the bottom of the pan, just about 3/4 of the way. I poked about 3 holes across, every two inches.  Drizzle syrup into holes.

SYRUP
3/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup butter
3 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon rum extract

Heat this until sugar dissolves and little bubbles form around the edge of the pan, but don't boil.

After you drizzle the syrup over the cake (while its still in the pan) let the cake cool in the pan for a couple of hours before you turn it out onto a serving plate (it won't stick to the pan).

NOTE: Next time I make this cake I plan to double the syrup and use half of it as instructed above, but the other half I will brush onto the cake after it comes out of the pan.  It dries  nice and shiny, so it will make a wonderful (thin) glaze.

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Kitchen Memories

On of my favorite places on earth is Petershams Nursery.   It is outside of London. One takes a bus out to Richmond, then walks till the nursery sign painted on the side of a building becomes visible.  Follow the arrow down the alleyway and then walk toward an open field.  Their is a wide drive filled with various farm vehicles and finally the gates open to Petershams.  Inside are glass housed filled with plants, and enormous garden center with the glorious and the mundane.  In the very back is an old greenhouse and when the sun hits the glass panes, there old loamy funk of a greenhouse seeps in. 

In that old greenhouse are tables and chairs and some really wonderful food.  The chef who got the ball rolling at Petershams was Skye Gyngell.  At the beginning, she brought her own pots and pans every day.  Soon a tiny kitchen was added in an old brick room behind the greenhouse and before long, the nursery was a dinning destination.  Alas, with all this fame came what every chef wants, a Micheline star, but the star proved to be the demise of Gyngell.   Some diners felt the star meant valet parking, white tablecloths and well, a floor.   Sadly, she left and new chef came.


Back in London, n the same vein of glorious simple cooking, Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray presided over The River Cafe, another food destination and starting point for many an illustrious English cooking career.  Which brings us to today's cookbook, Kitchen Memories, by Lucy Boyd.  Lucy Boyd is Rose Gray's daughter.  After spending many years in the kitchen at The River Cafe, and many more at home cooking with her mother and family, Boyd went on to become the gardener at Petershams Nursery, growing the vegetables that graced Skye Gyngell's menus.   If Gyngell wanted to try something, Boyd grew it for her.  This wasn't farm-to-table eating this was literally table-IN-the farm eating and it couldn't be better.

It is clear that Boyd did not fall far from the tree.  Her recipes are inviting, simple and about all else delicious.   This simple chicken dish will leave you wanting more.
 

Lemony Chicken with Fresh Coriander

20g fresh root ginger, peeled and chopped into small chunks
3 cloves of garlic, peeled ¼ tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander seeds
2 tsp cumin seeds
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
1 medium-size chicken, jointed into its various parts (the butcher will do this for you)
3 tbsp olive oil
juice of 1½ lemons
1 fresh green chilli, stalk removed, then finely chopped (deseed if you prefer it less hot)
1 small bunch of fresh coriander, leaves picked from their stems, washed, dried and finely chopped
sea salt and black pepper

Put the ginger in the food processor with two to three tablespoons of water and blend to a paste.

Put the garlic, turmeric, coriander, cumin and cayenne pepper in a pestle and mortar and pound together.

Season the chicken pieces well all over with salt and pepper.

Heat a drizzle of the olive oil in a shallow, heavy-based pan, add the chicken pieces and brown them on all sides -- it may be easier to brown them in batches if your pan is too small to to fit them without overlapping.  Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to a bowl.

Put the garlic and spice mixture into the still-hot pan (you may need to add a little more oil) and stir to release their flavours. Add the ginger and chopped chilli and stir-fry for a minute or so. Add the chicken pieces and any juices that have been released, then add 8 tablespoons of water and the lemon juice. Stir, then turn up the heat and bring to a boil, cover with a tight-fitting lid and turn the heat right down to a gentle simmer.  Cook for 15 minutes until the chicken is tender and cooked through. Remove the lid and scatter the chopped coriander over the top. Serve with spiced basmati rice. 

You may not have a gardener or a greenhouse, but get yourself a nice pot of coriander (or cilantro as we Yanks call it) and set it in the window.  Then you will be ready for this lemony chicken.

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CLASSIC CREAMY COLESLAW

The calendar says spring is here, although today (5/18/2013) it is snowing like crazy here in Alaska. I'm not letting that stop me from planning a barbecue this weekend (wish me luck!!).

THIS SALAD COULDN'T BE EASIER!!!

I love "make ahead" salads that go well with ANYTHING you decide to grill. This classic coleslaw recipe is not only refreshing, but it is inexpensive to make and you can make it 2-3 days ahead of time (if need be) which is wonderful for busy summer weekends.

If you make it ahead of time, just gently toss before serving

4 cups shredded cabbage
2 large carrots grated

1/2 cup mayo
1/4 cup sour cream
3 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard (I use Honey Dijon)
1/2 teaspoon celery seed
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 cup milk

Whisk the last 9 ingredients together and toss with the shredded veggies. Mix well and Chill AT LEAST 2 hours (overnight is even better).  That's it, quick and simple!!

NOTE: We like a SMALL dice on our cabbage, so I cut up the cabbage then finish it off by pulsing it in the food processor until I get a pretty small dice, but that is just our personal preference.

You can also buy pre-cut coleslaw mix at the grocery store which makes this salad very quick. 

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EASY MINI CHEESECAKES

Picky-picky husband has decided he loves cheesecake. Not just any cheesecake (that's part of his picky-picky-ness), but he loves miniature cheesecakes. I think it is because he can just snag one out of the fridge without plate or utensils.

This recipe for mini-cheesecakes is extremely quick and easy and since you can use any flavor of jam, it is quite versatile. If you don't want to add the jam, just leave it out!!

CRUST
1 cup graham cracker crumbs
2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons butter, melted

Mix these three items until everything is moist and crumbly.
Place paper cupcake liners in cupcake pan (recipe makes 24 miniature cheesecakes).  Place a scant tablespoon of the crumbs in the bottom of each paper liner and tamp down a little.

CHEESECAKE FILLING

(3) 8 ounce packages of cream cheese (room temperature)
3/4 cup sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 eggs

Beat the softened cream cheese for 2 minutes; it should be very creamy. Add the sugar and vanilla and beat for about 30 seconds.

Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well (on low) in between each egg.

If you are going to use jam in these cheesecakes (it is completely optional), put a rounded tablespoon of cheesecake batter on top of each graham cracker crust. Swirl a little of your favorite jam over the batter, like this:

Top this with another heaping tablespoon of cheesecake filling and then put another swirl of jam on the top surface.

Bake at 325°F for 25-30 minutes (my electric oven takes 25 minutes).

Leave the baked cheesecakes in the pan and cool to room temperature. After they are at room temperature, put them in the fridge to chill for at least a couple hours before serving.

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The Tammy Wynette Southern Cookbook

The death of George Jones made us troll our collection to find this gem, The Tammy Wynette Southern Cookbook.  Now Tammy penned this little cookbook after she and George had long split, but one simply can't think of George without a passing thought of Tammy.  

"As many of you know already, I was born on a sharecropper farm in Itawamba County,Mississippi.  We had no running water, no indoor plumbing, and no stove.  We cooked over an open fireplace with water drawn and handcarried from a nearby spring.... In the years that have passed since then, I've preformed on every continent, in hundreds of cities, and in nearly every state in the U.S. ...I've entertained in the White House numerous times, and before other heads of state, in addition to preforming in some of the most famous concert halls in the world.  Yet, despite all these honors, my roots are pure rural Mississippi."

While she admits to gathering many of her recipes from her grandmother, she is not adverse to a bit of 1950's kitchen helpers.  There are Ritz crackers, cake mix, tons of canned soup and even some canned asparagus.  A good third of the book is dedicated to dessert.  There are chocolate pies, chess pies and cobbler, with eggs if times are good and it plain ol' berries when they are not.   

There is not a lot of exposition to these recipes.  Either you have it or you don't.  This cake was passed on to her by some friends.  

Jell-O Cake

1 box cake mix (yellow or white)
3/4 cup Wesson oil
4 eggs
1 small box of Jell-O (any flavor)
3/4 cup milk

Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes in tube pan.

We believe that the ingredients should be thoroughly mixed before dumping into the tube pan.  And the tube pan should probably be oiled and lightly floured.   Simply close your eyes and think of the possibilities with all those Jell-o flavors.   Close your eyes and see Tammy waiting for George at the Pearly Gates, Jell-o Cake in hand.

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CHOCOLATE MARSHMALLOW BROWNIE PIE

I've noticed a trend on my birthday (which is today); it seems I always treat myself to something  CHOCOLATE!! Today's birthday post is ULTRA-chocolate (and delicious).

It starts with a rich brownie layer that you top with miniature marshmallows while it is still piping hot out of the oven. Then it is topped with a rich chocolate glaze and sprinkled with lots of toasted sliced almonds. It was heavenly!!

 

BROWNIE LAYER
In a small bowl whisk the following ingredients together:

3/4 cup all purpose flour
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt

In a different bowl, beat the following together:

1/2 cup butter melted
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla

Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and mix until smooth.

Place batter in a greased 9" round pan (spring form pan works the best) and bake in a 350°F oven for 25-30 minutes or until toothpick tests clean (my electric oven took 25 minutes).

Remove from oven (and turn oven off). Top HOT cake with miniature marshmallows (I used about 4 large handfuls) and put it back in the hot oven for 2-3 minutes or until marshmallows have puffed up a little. Remove from oven.

FUDGE FROSTING

6 tablespoons melted butter
6 tablespoons BOILING water
6 tablespoons dry cocoa powder
2 cups powdered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Whisk until smooth. Gently pour (evenly) over the warm marshmallows and then sprinkle with TOASTED sliced almonds (nuts optional). If you don't like nuts, colored sprinkles look festive too.

Let everything cool off a little, then put it in the fridge for about an hour to "set" the chocolate frosting. Bring the cake back to room temperature before serving.

NOTE: You can bake this in ANY greased 9" cake pan, but a two piece spring form pan will allow you to remove the cake a little easier. If you use a 2 piece pan, make sure you put a cookie sheet under the pan.

 

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Mastering The Art of Southern Cooking

This weekend, Nathalie Dupree and Cynthia Graubart won the James Beard Award for American Cooking  with their behemoth Mastering The Art of Southern Cooking.  Not only is it a cookbook, but it makes a great DIY project.  Just add four rather sturdy  legs and you have a lovely martini table ( or should we say mint julep table?) to sit beside your settee.  It has been said that about 300 pages was cut from the manuscript which now stands at over 700 pages.

There are those that have taken offense with the "Mastering The Art" title, and while it might cause one to think of the legendary Julia Child, there are nearly a thousand books featuring those words in the title, so you need to get over it.  Dupree worked for two years when Graubart signed on to assist and then the pair worked another four years to bring the book to fruition. In the midst if the process they published  Southern Biscuits in 2011.  In researching Mastering The Art of Southern Cooking, they had already amassed 35 biscuit recipes!

Needless to say, there is not much of anything left out.  There are some things in the cookbook that don't really strike me as totally "Southern" like Yorkshire Pudding Popovers, but then there is Okra Pilau.  There are lots of grits, plenty of pork and enough desserts to send you into a coma.  When we wanted to pull out a recipe, we felt the same kind of overwhelmed that Dupree felt in the early stages of research.  What to do??  Well this is an old, new Southern favorite.

Mississippi Caviar

3 (16 ounce) cans black-eyed peas, drained

1/2 cup finely chopped green pepper

1/2 cup finely chopped red pepper

3/4 cup finely chopped hot peppers

3/4 cup finely chopped onion

1/4 cup drained, chopped pimento

1 garlic cloves, chopped

1/3 cup red wine vinegar

2/3 cup olive oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Salt

Hot sauce

In a large mixing bowl, combine peas, bell peppers, hot peppers, onion, pimento and garlic.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the vinegar, oil and mustard and pour over the bean mixture; mix well. Season to taste with salt and hot sauce. 

With a wooden spoon or potato masher, mash the bean mixture slightly. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Drain the caviar well before serving.

 If you want to totally immerse someone in Southern cooking, this book is the best place to start.   Congratulations on the James Beard Award.

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MINI BUTTERSCOTCH CHEESECAKES

Whether you are a small family or "empty nesters" like us, this scaled down recipe for mini-butterscotch cheesecakes is a handy one.

I started scaling down full sized dessert recipes because we got tired of eating the same dessert several nights in a row. This recipe (depending on how big you make them) will give you 5 or 6 cupcake sized cheesecakes.

Preheat oven to 325°F and line a cupcake pan with paper liners.

GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST:
3/4 cup graham cracker crumbs
2 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons melted butter
Mix crust ingredients and divide evenly between 5-6 paper liners (press crumbs down to make flat crust inside paper liners).

CHEESECAKE BATTER:
1/2 cup butterscotch baking chips
4 ounces regular cream cheese (room temperature)
2 tablespoons sugar
1 eggs slightly beaten (room temperature)
1 teaspoons all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon rum extract (see note)

Melt butterscotch baking chips (I use my microwave) just until they are melted and smooth, don't overheat. Set aside to cool down a little.

Beat the cream cheese until it is very smooth (1 minute or so?). Beat in the melted (and cooled) butterscotch chips and sugar until well mixed. Add the egg, flour and extracts and beat until smooth, but don't over beat.

Pour the batter over the crust and fill paper liners about 80% full, or almost to the top. When these cheesecakes are done baking, they will look domed, but as they cool, they will lose that "dome".

Bake for 25-30 minutes (my electric oven takes 30 minutes). Of course it will depend on how much you fill up the paper liners and how hot your oven runs. Just bake them until they are set.

Cool in the pan for half hour or so, then put them (still in the pan) in the fridge to chill for a few hours. Remove paper liners before serving.

NOTE: If you don't have rum extract, just double the vanilla.

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EASY DRY RUB FOR GRILLING

It IS spring, right? Here in Alaska we aren't so sure, since today (May 2nd) it is snowing!! I have to stay positive and plan for future barbeque's though, so here is a QUICK and SUPER EASY dry rub to use the next time you grill outdoors.  It may look a little on the sweet side, but the final product is NOT overly sweet, it is perfect.

3/4 cup white sugar
3/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup salt
1 teaspoon onion powder (not onion salt)
1 tablespoon coarse ground pepper
pinch of cayenne pepper (or to taste)
2 tablespoons paprika

Mix well and keep in jar with a tight lid. To use, brush your pork or chicken lightly with vegetable oil and then rub this mixture onto the surface of the meat about 20 minutes before grilling. It couldn't be easier!!

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Moro

 In recent years, Spanish food has been all the rage.  It is the other Mediterranean food. Hop a boat to North Africa and you get a whole new spin on Mediterranean.  While elBulli was the moon for molecular gastronaughts, Spaniards have been eating food for quite some time.  

So how does one find out how to cook, simple, delicious Spanish food.  Let's start with simple delicious Italian food.  The River Cafe in London is one of the world's best restaurants.  It offers up, simple, clean, seasonal Italian food.  It has also offered up a slew of fabulous cooks.   If you are a famous chef in London, there is a good chance you once worked at The River Cafe.

That was the case for Sam and Sam Clark.  One is Samantha and the other Samuel but which is which?  After working at The River Cafe and honeymooning in Morocco, the duo decided to open a cafe that would spotlight the flavors of the Mediterranean from a Spanish point of view and in the late 1990's they opened Moro.  It quickly became THE place to eat in London.  In 2001, Sam and Sam published their cookbook which was an instant hit.

Unlike Italian food which now has a stronghold in even the tiniest towns in America, Spanish cooking hasn't exactly permeated the country.  That means there are some spices and condiments that require a bit of shopping.  But once you find a supplier, you are golden.

At Moro they are very fond of harissa.  Harissa is one of those condiment used with the same ubiquitous flare that Americans use mayo.   Those this one is hot and red!   More an more, one can find harissa in larger supermarkets, but Moro makes their own.   Once you try this, store bought will never be OK.   Many harissa recipes call for dried peppers but Moro's spin it to use fresh peppers along side the canned piquillos.

Harissa

250 g long fresh red chiles
4 garlic cloves
Sea salt
3 heaped teaspoons coarsely ground caraway seeds
3 heaped teaspoons coarsely ground cumin seeds
1 level teaspoon ground black cumin seeds (optional)
100 g jarred piquillo peppers, or 1 large red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, and seeded
1 dessertspoon tomato purée or tomato paste blended with a little water
1 dessertspoon red-wine vinegar
2 level teaspoons sweet smoked Spanish paprika
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. It is advisable to wear rubber gloves when preparing the chiles. Slice the chiles in half lengthwise. Lay each chile, cut side up, on a cutting board, cut side up and gently scrape away the seeds and fleshy veins, discarding them. Roughly chop the chiles and transfer to a food processor. Add the garlic, a pinch of salt, and half of each the spices; process until smooth. Add the piquillos and process. It’s important that the paste is as smooth as possible.

2. Transfer to a mixing bowl. Now add the remaining ingredients—the rest of the spices, tomato purée, vinegar, paprika, and olive oil. Taste and season with more salt to balance out the vinegar. Harissa keeps well in the fridge, but be sure to cover it with a little olive oil to seal it from the air.

Now that you have it made, what to do with it???

At Moro, they bath a nice plump chicken in the paste and roast it.  Couldn't be better!

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